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- True Brew
- Trying to convert lead into gold never worked out too well for anybody. But turning hops and barley into golden liquid brings hordes to The Alchemist Pub & Brewery in Waterbury, where the serious task of brewing is served with a side of fun. Just try the Holy Cow I.P.A, Type O Positive or Knuckle Dragger. Good thing the mosaic-tiled bar — made by local artist Heather Glenn — is long enough to accommodate lots of ale aficionados.
- But its brews aren't the Alchemist's sole strong point. From the hip modern art on the walls to the mellow blend of jazz and folky pop from the speakers, it's a lively place to stop for a meal. The extensive menu, loaded with comfort food, draws a democratic mix of couples and families to the dining room. Kids love the luminescent mobile suspended overhead.
- Appetizers such as hand-cut French fries — served with homemade ketchup — and the house-smoked sausage plate put standard "freezer to fryolator" pub fare to shame. Even the pickles are homemade. The tender P.E.I. mussels are prepared differently each day, but the portion is always mountainous.
- Heartier dishes include well-spiced red beans and rice prepared one of four ways — virgin, or with blackened tofu, pulled pork or andouille sausage. Cheddar cheese, baby greens and sour cream accompany all. There's also the mixed sauerkraut plate — a heap of savory cabbage with knockwurst and bratwurst. The miniature potato pancakes piled on the side are perfectly crispy and delicious, especially when topped with dollops of herbed sour cream or applesauce. Other entrées include a pot-roast dinner, complete with baby carrots and pearl onions, and homestyle chicken and biscuits.
- It may not rise to the level of "magic," but all the elements at the Alchemist taste good together.
- — SUZANNE PODHAIZER
- The Alchemist Pub & Brewery
23 South Main Street, Waterbury 244-4120 
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photo: andy duback
